Castle Peak
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Climbing is dangerous! Every year many climbers are broken, maimed, and killed. Don't be so foolish as to trust your life to what you see here. I'm not a guide and neither is this web site. If you don't know what you are doing or where you are going, please take a course or hire a guide!

The Castle - Jan 7, 2001
The Castle - Jan 4, 2003

Castle Peak, Tatoosh Range

Mount Rainier National Park

Castle Peak is one of the central peaks of the Tatoosh Range, sitting between Pinnacle and Unicorn. Winter access is fast and easy from the Narada Falls parking lot. On many days when the Muir snowfield and Rainier itself are obscured by foul weather, the Tatoosh range is navigable, if not outright clear. Both the Castle-Pinnacle and Castle-Unicorn saddles provide access to premium ski runs on BOTH the south and north aspects. In the winter months, there is almost always some, if not lots, of good snow to be found.

Castle has an imposing north face. But don't be fooled: The peak is smaller than it appears (I think perspective is difficult due to the bulk of nearby Rainier) and the south face is climbable in a single pitch with some third, fourth, and perhaps a move or two of low fifth. Pro is scarce, though, so if you aren't up for a solo, bring a #2 Camalot to protect the "crux". Many downclimb, but I prefer to take advantage of a tailor-made rappel horn.


This page was last edited on Tuesday, August 30, 2005
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