Nisqually, 09-16-01
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Climbing is dangerous! Every year many climbers are broken, maimed, and killed. Don't be so foolish as to trust your life to what you see here. I'm not a guide and neither is this web site. If you don't know what you are doing or where you are going, please take a course or hire a guide!

Nisqually Glacier Crevassing

September 16, 2001

After five days being glued to the television watching a nightmare in New York, Washington DC, and Pennsylvania, I needed to get into the mountains. Though we talked about another all-night marathon, my heart wasn't in it. We opted for a casual day on the Nisqually instead.

We walked the Moraine trail rather than paved trail, and that saved us several hundred feet of lost elevation on the approach. I was shocked at how much snow and ice had melted off since I was there on August 11. The last 45 minutes of the approach was pretty miserable. With the usual snow fingers completely gone, we were forced into the loose rock and dirt.

There was less climbing to choose from, too. We ended up setting only two top-ropes, but we took several laps on the first, and the second was an obscene overhanging thing. It started just past vertical to a decent rest, then kicked back to what we estimated as not more than 40 degrees past vertical, but not less than 25 (it is hard to judge...)

Jens works a stem on our first line.

Jens pulling hard on the overhanging section near the top.

Me on the first line. And, yes, I am wearing two right-foot gaiters.

Me working for a no-hands rest.

Jens on the back side of the overhanging serac. Our TR was set at the arrow. Neither of us was able to climb the overhang, which was steeper than what is visible to the left. 

Unicorn Peak, of the Tatoosh Range, on the left, with Mt. Adams in the background.


This page was last edited on Wednesday, February 23, 2005
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