Mount Stuart
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Climbing is dangerous! Every year many climbers are broken, maimed, and killed. Don't be so foolish as to trust your life to what you see here. I'm not a guide and neither is this web site. If you don't know what you are doing or where you are going, please take a course or hire a guide!

Jens out of harm's way, heading toward the ice cliff.

Jens approaching the first section of the ice cliff, our route in blue.

We talked about whether to rope up, eventually deciding that Jens would start up unroped with his Black Prophet and a walking axe. Ten feet up, frustrated by the performance of the walking axe, Jens asked me to toss up the rope. I flaked it out and tossed and end to him (he was standing on a small ledge). He tied in, clipped and screw, and continued up. He put in one more screw eight feet below the lip, and then pulled over. At his call I took him off belay and packed up my gear. When he called out that I was on belay, I started climbing.

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Jens leading the short AI3 section. This is, unfortunately, the best of two pictures that I took.

What a joy it was to be on steep ice again. I had an easier go with two technical tools and was all smiles when I pulled _Jens_jumping_a_crevasse_06-23-01.jpg" width="427" height="640">
Jens stepping over a small crevasse above the schrund.

An objective for 2002. Do you know what it is?

We followed footprints for a while, but where the cut west toward the middle of the glacier, we stayed east. We were snuggled up against the granite, sometimes using one hand on the rock for support. A crevasse stretching from the east wall to the middle of the glacier finally forced us to the west. Once past it we could see that the bergschrund, which frequently forces climbers to climb mid-fifth rock, was easily passabr. An unfortunate rarity in the Cascades these days.

Jens on the snow slope below the false summit.

Jens and the summit. It wasn't as far away as it looks.

After a thirty minute rest, we departed for the summit, leaving our technical gear at the col. We crossed the steep snowfield below the false summit to the beautiful gcould see the Ice Cliff glacier in its cirque.

The North Ridge on the left and the Ice Cliff Glacier in the middle.

We wrote in the register and had one of the other climbers take a picture of us. At 11:40 AM we packed and headed back to the col. We took a higher route back to take advantage of a glissade. It was steep, but the snow was soft, and it was a nice warmup for what was to come.

Jens descending toward the col access to the Sherpa Glacier, with Sherpa Peak in the background. We went around the mini-towerrambles/Hikes ] Ice Climbing ] Links ] Chronological Index ] Humor and BS ] Web Cams ]
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