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The Emmons/Upper Winthrop
I've meandered up the Emmons three times now. And while it is a longer walk,
and an additional 1000' of elevation gain, I certainly prefer it to the standard
Disappointment Cleaver route. I enjoy starting in the mature forests above the
White River campground. The trees and streams are beautiful. And the way the
mountain bashfully hides in the trees, and later behind the high ridges
dramatically increases the excitement.
This is also my favorite route for climbers new to Rainier. I've climbed to
the top on the Emmons with five different people, and for four of those, it was
a first ascent of this magnificent Cascade volcano. The route breaks up nicely
into three days: One day to Camp Curtis, one (short) day to Camp Schurman or
Emmons Flats, and then a long day to the summit and out. The short second day
can be augmented with self-arrest and prussiking practice at Emmons Flats. Make
no mistake, though, Camp Schurman is only 9460', and Emmons Flats is just a bit
higher at 9700'. Making a high camp at either place makes for a challenging
summit day, especially for those who choose to descend from the summit all the
way back to White River. I was pretty wasted after my only two-day ascent on
this route in 1999.
Special Considerations
 | In late season it is about 4.5 miles to the toe of the Interglacier. Do
yourself a favor and wear comfortable, lightweight hikers or tennis shoes
and carry your plastics. It may not be an issue on the way in, but you will
thank me and yourself when, after climbing 4700'+ and descending about 8000'
in one day, you arrive back at your comfortable, dry shoes. |
| The Interglacier can be evil. The first 'hump' frequently melts out to
water ice in late season. The upper section seems to become more crevassed
each year. If you choose to glissade on the way out (and it is mighty
tempting), be very cautious and keep it slow on the upper section. Many of
the crevasses are invisible from above. Once you are past the first hump and
can see the toe, it is usually safe to let it rip. |
| There is a (very) rustic facility at Camp Curtis. Better than a blue bag,
but if you can wait until you reach Camp Schurman, you will be happier. |
| I think Camp Schurman is a miserable place. Others think the same about
Emmons Flats. It is only a ten minute walk between the two. Check them both
out and decide for yourself. |
| Camp Schurman and Emmons Flats both get VERY windy. Don't be fooled by
windless conditions or the inattention of others. I've seen four season
tents full of gear blow away at Emmons Flats. And I heard a rumor that the
barbeque at the Schurman Ranger hut broke its tether and blew away in 1999.
Those little wire stakes are worthless. Use pickets, axes, deadmen, or invest
in a few of those outrageously expensive snow disks. They cost too much at
$6.25 each, but a set of four is still a lot less than a tent full of gear. |
| If you have to poop at Emmons Flats, don't be an ass. Use a blue bag and
throw it in the barrel. |
| Don't be fooled by the descriptions of this route as the "least
technical" on the mountain. Expect big crevasses, thin, grim bridges,
and some water ice. This least technical route on Rainier is much more
technical than Casaval Ridge on Shasta. In September, 2000, the route
included fifty vertical feet of front-pointing on a 60 degree+ slope near
14,000'. |
| While the route is frequently "stomped-in", don't expect it to
be. A little wind and snow can obscure the boot track in minutes. The route
never seems to be well wanded. Take your own and use them. |
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